Episode II: The End
This randonnee offers the rider the rare opportunity to ride along the entire Korean East Coast, a pilgrimage for adventurous endurance athletes in Korea itself. It’s a 300 kilometer journey north along some of the most dramatic coastline Korea has to offer and although you might not see any huge spikes in the climbing profile, your elevation gained adds up quickly with all the sawteeth. These sawteeth are all the rolling hills along the coast and for some riders, they are more tiring than attacking a huge climb. In 2014 we did this entire section fighting a nasty headwind; however, in 2015, a tailwind allowed us to shave hours off our previous effort. It’s a coin toss on the East Coast with wind, but no matter what, the rider will want to stop and take in the spectacular scenery and delicious seafood if the opportunity presents itself. In 2016, this section will be ridden from north to south which is how most Korean bike tourists ride it if I am not mistaken. I believe they do this to gain the benefit of prevailing winds in the area. Either way, this is a good section to link up with other riders and take advantage of forming small pelotons. Plus you’ll have extra guys around to take seaside photos of you and your riding partners.
Heading inland from the coast, the route climbs the highest pass (just under 1000M) and begins the hillier section of the route. In 2014/15 this last 500K is the hilliest, but that is reversed in 2016 so it’s more frontloaded this time around. The climb is one you want to hit early in the morning if possible, and you still run the risk of overheating. It’s endless switchbacks with elevation signs every 100 meters. It’s a superb challenge and I’m always secretly proud of myself for completing this climb, so I treat myself to an ice cream and 2L bottle of Pocari at the top. Then we regroup and enjoy the longer drawn-out descent. I haven’t done this in reverse, but I will this year. I have a feeling it’s easier in reverse--so easier this year. If you study the profile you’ll immediately see what I mean. It’s a series of more gradual little peaks leading up to one final 400KM push to the top, as opposed to the 1000M gain on the east side. That will be the descent this year and once you clear those switchbacks--which will slow you down quite a bit--make sure those brake cables are in good order because you’re gonna get one of the best forearm workouts of your life--all the way back down to sea level.
The section after this is kind of a blur for both years for me. I remember getting hit with a Noah-level rainstorm approaching Sangju with Seattle Randonneurs Mark and Vinny in 2014. Torrential floods had us rolling through 5-6cms of water on the roads. Fenders did nothing. Frogs were committing suicide in the dark in our spokes, Thunder cracked and lightning flashed so insanely bright that for a split second you could make out the colors of day and see the crazy people out there riding with you. There are hills all over the area--and especially Naejangsan is an enjoyable climb with its gradual grade and breathtaking views. There is a good mix of Korean roads in this section. Some highways connecting you to smaller roads--and a bit of bike path mixed in. And you watch the time, and you drink coffee, and you greet other riders on the path with a friendly Annyong Haseyo--gotta at least learn that word. And you eat meat, and you eat bread, and you eat Advil like Skittles, and you pedal, and you pedal, and you wave to rice farmers on little tractors, and you watch Japanese guys like Mickey doing yoga on their bikes while moving at 25km/hr, and you bomb those descents and stretch those legs. And you can’t believe it when you finally hit Gwangju because you’ve done it. And Mr. Han is waiting there for you with Jeolla makgeolli, beer, chicken, big hugs, and memorable photo ops. You’ve done another 1200K--but not just any 1200. This is Korea. This is the Grand Randonnee, and it’s one of the toughest out there. Don’t take my word for it. Check out the website, check out the elevation profile, ask anyone who’s ridden it. But seriously, grab a ticket to Seoul and get your bike boxed. You’re in for one helluvan adventure, and I’d be honored to meet you and share a few plates of Korean barbecue with you along the way--not to mention I know some great free sleeping spots--just bring bug spray and one of those silver emergency blankets and you’re golden. See you on the road in 2016, brothers and sister of the bike.
--Jason
Yep, I have ADHD and that’s why you’re so confused after reading my report. I hope it helped a little though.