Episode 1: The Start
The Start
Gwangju is the birthplace of Korea Randonneurs as far as I know. The first brevets were run out of Gwangju in 2010. The reason I’m telling you this is that Mr. Han, the owner of Unam MTB where all the action starts, was in it from the beginning. He’s a PBP finisher--one of the first Korean’s to complete it--so he knows the ins and outs of randonneuring and what is needed to help riders get off to a comfortable start and a memorable finish. For now, what I can say is he’s moved into a new shop (from 2015) right in an area perfect for the start of a brevet. It’s right by numerous restaurants and motels which usually go for $25-$50 per night depending on your set-up. I’ve never really seen it sold out in that area either so it’s easy to just show up to the start, cruise down the road, and check into a motel--Basic English, a smile, and gestures should be enough to get you set up even if there aren’t any Korean friends around to help you. I’ll let you experience the rest of the adventure on your own. One thing’s for sure, it’ll be an experience to write home about--whether it’s a giant heart-shaped bed, a James Bond-themed shower, or a dildo machine next to a massage chair, you’re sure to see something that entertains. By the way, there’s a McDonald’s about 2K from the start which I personally eat at before every brevet that starts in Gwangju and offer free guided tours to as well.
If you are still reading, then you have an adventurous spirit and will finish strong. The riders head, basically, due east through some of the most beautiful countryside and hilly little areas Korea has to offer. It doesn’t take long to escape Gwangju via the river paths and country roads. Unlike other large cities, Gwangju spits the rider out almost immediately into the Zen areas and KoRa picks the best of these roads to follow.
The first thing about the ride I remember is cruising up and down country lanes greeting riders from different countries. It’s the first day of an odyssey and it’s nice to shoot the shit with guys you will be seeing a lot of on the road the next few days. Riders have visited us from Canada, The US, Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Germany, and more--and it is fun to use this section to put names to faces and get a sense of their first impressions of Jeolla Province. I’m usually so caught up talking to people and telling stories that I invariably miss a turn or cue and go off course. This wouldn’t usually be such a big deal, but with 30-40 riders following me, it can be embarrassing. That’s the last time they trust me as a guide--good choice. ;-)
The 2016 route uses fewer controls than the previous versions--and I guess that’s good. Riders can still stop when they want to or just cruise on through little towns when they feel like it. A little research can help for those riders who like to know exactly where things are--but honestly, Korea is so densely populated that even in the most remote areas during the quietest times, you’re still typically only 30 or 40kms from a fully stocked convenience store and this route is no different. I trust Korea to come through geographically like this, so I pack lighter than usual--especially in the summer when the GR1200 is held. I tell guys to pack light--really--especially North Americans who are maybe used to being out in the middle of nowhere--really out there. That kind of wilderness just doesn’t exist in Korea. It simply isn’t big enough to house it. The cool thing about Korea is you feel like you’re out there in the wilderness, but really in the next valley or over the next pass, there is a little bit of civilization stocked full of water and food. The dropbag is a beautiful service and makes things really comfortable--especially with fresh shorts--but the ride is doable without a dropbag.
The first big climbs come near Hapjeong Dam area and the heat is the thing that might catch riders off guard. We hit this section during the hottest part of the day in 2014 and suffered for it. One of our group had to get off his bike, rehydrate, and lie down in the shade. He was in the red zone so we had to climb slowly and monitor his condition closely. I’ve had this happen riding in Korea in the summer too. It’s easy to push a little too hard in this legendary humidity--and it takes a long time to recover and get back on the road. Some guys even plan to ride through the night and sleep during the hottest times of the day to avoid becoming a victim of the sun here. Sunscreen, water, and breathable clothing is a must. Actually, you need Nuun, Endurolytes, salt tablets--or a similar product to keep your electrolytes balanced. Korean heat will sap the shit out of you if you’re not ready for it. Pocari Sweat, Powerade, and other drinks are sold along the way too--in every town. I tell this story about the climb in Hapjeong knowing it’s been replaced with a detour south to Namhae in 2016. It’s the heat I wanted the reader to get an idea of from this story--and believe me, there is always heat and climbing in that heat on the Grand.
The first night in 2014 involved a group of four of us getting lucky around the 400K mark. We popped into a seaside motel and grabbed 3 hours of sleep. It would become standard procedure in 2014 to get 3 hours a night of shuteye no matter what. That meant our stops were 4 hours total including showers and meals. I was a bit freaked out spending that much time off the bike because I am no speed demon, but it ended up doing the trick. We were always well-rested and we only needed one nap the entire ride outside of those sleep stops. We stopped for three meals a day and made sure to have our mandatory beers before bed and during especially hot times during the day. I made sure to introduce our group to some of the best Korean country food we could find. I relay these details to show you that it is possible to enjoy the food and sights a bit and roll at a fairly relaxed pace for this event. That said, I think our total time for that year was 89+ hours so we did cut it kind of close.
The following year, my partner, Dean Comeau and I got into the habit of having his wife call ahead and reserve a spot for us. It was an added luxury to the ride and it accomplished three things chiefly: It gave us a solid mark to hit so we had to make our destination or bust each day; it also guaranteed us a spot in the town we chose, so there was no stress about things getting sold out. And thirdly, it made checking in a cinch. One night we made a reservation at a pension for a reduced rate and the owner just texted us the room number and left the key on the dresser. Sure enough it was right there when we rolled in around 4am without a soul in sight. We rolled our bikes inside and didn’t have to wait for anything or anyone. We were in, both showered, beered, and lights out within 20 minutes. 2015 was more about not cutting it too close. The next day we would wake up and proceed north for 300K along the East Coast.
Gwangju is the birthplace of Korea Randonneurs as far as I know. The first brevets were run out of Gwangju in 2010. The reason I’m telling you this is that Mr. Han, the owner of Unam MTB where all the action starts, was in it from the beginning. He’s a PBP finisher--one of the first Korean’s to complete it--so he knows the ins and outs of randonneuring and what is needed to help riders get off to a comfortable start and a memorable finish. For now, what I can say is he’s moved into a new shop (from 2015) right in an area perfect for the start of a brevet. It’s right by numerous restaurants and motels which usually go for $25-$50 per night depending on your set-up. I’ve never really seen it sold out in that area either so it’s easy to just show up to the start, cruise down the road, and check into a motel--Basic English, a smile, and gestures should be enough to get you set up even if there aren’t any Korean friends around to help you. I’ll let you experience the rest of the adventure on your own. One thing’s for sure, it’ll be an experience to write home about--whether it’s a giant heart-shaped bed, a James Bond-themed shower, or a dildo machine next to a massage chair, you’re sure to see something that entertains. By the way, there’s a McDonald’s about 2K from the start which I personally eat at before every brevet that starts in Gwangju and offer free guided tours to as well.
If you are still reading, then you have an adventurous spirit and will finish strong. The riders head, basically, due east through some of the most beautiful countryside and hilly little areas Korea has to offer. It doesn’t take long to escape Gwangju via the river paths and country roads. Unlike other large cities, Gwangju spits the rider out almost immediately into the Zen areas and KoRa picks the best of these roads to follow.
The first thing about the ride I remember is cruising up and down country lanes greeting riders from different countries. It’s the first day of an odyssey and it’s nice to shoot the shit with guys you will be seeing a lot of on the road the next few days. Riders have visited us from Canada, The US, Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Germany, and more--and it is fun to use this section to put names to faces and get a sense of their first impressions of Jeolla Province. I’m usually so caught up talking to people and telling stories that I invariably miss a turn or cue and go off course. This wouldn’t usually be such a big deal, but with 30-40 riders following me, it can be embarrassing. That’s the last time they trust me as a guide--good choice. ;-)
The 2016 route uses fewer controls than the previous versions--and I guess that’s good. Riders can still stop when they want to or just cruise on through little towns when they feel like it. A little research can help for those riders who like to know exactly where things are--but honestly, Korea is so densely populated that even in the most remote areas during the quietest times, you’re still typically only 30 or 40kms from a fully stocked convenience store and this route is no different. I trust Korea to come through geographically like this, so I pack lighter than usual--especially in the summer when the GR1200 is held. I tell guys to pack light--really--especially North Americans who are maybe used to being out in the middle of nowhere--really out there. That kind of wilderness just doesn’t exist in Korea. It simply isn’t big enough to house it. The cool thing about Korea is you feel like you’re out there in the wilderness, but really in the next valley or over the next pass, there is a little bit of civilization stocked full of water and food. The dropbag is a beautiful service and makes things really comfortable--especially with fresh shorts--but the ride is doable without a dropbag.
The first big climbs come near Hapjeong Dam area and the heat is the thing that might catch riders off guard. We hit this section during the hottest part of the day in 2014 and suffered for it. One of our group had to get off his bike, rehydrate, and lie down in the shade. He was in the red zone so we had to climb slowly and monitor his condition closely. I’ve had this happen riding in Korea in the summer too. It’s easy to push a little too hard in this legendary humidity--and it takes a long time to recover and get back on the road. Some guys even plan to ride through the night and sleep during the hottest times of the day to avoid becoming a victim of the sun here. Sunscreen, water, and breathable clothing is a must. Actually, you need Nuun, Endurolytes, salt tablets--or a similar product to keep your electrolytes balanced. Korean heat will sap the shit out of you if you’re not ready for it. Pocari Sweat, Powerade, and other drinks are sold along the way too--in every town. I tell this story about the climb in Hapjeong knowing it’s been replaced with a detour south to Namhae in 2016. It’s the heat I wanted the reader to get an idea of from this story--and believe me, there is always heat and climbing in that heat on the Grand.
The first night in 2014 involved a group of four of us getting lucky around the 400K mark. We popped into a seaside motel and grabbed 3 hours of sleep. It would become standard procedure in 2014 to get 3 hours a night of shuteye no matter what. That meant our stops were 4 hours total including showers and meals. I was a bit freaked out spending that much time off the bike because I am no speed demon, but it ended up doing the trick. We were always well-rested and we only needed one nap the entire ride outside of those sleep stops. We stopped for three meals a day and made sure to have our mandatory beers before bed and during especially hot times during the day. I made sure to introduce our group to some of the best Korean country food we could find. I relay these details to show you that it is possible to enjoy the food and sights a bit and roll at a fairly relaxed pace for this event. That said, I think our total time for that year was 89+ hours so we did cut it kind of close.
The following year, my partner, Dean Comeau and I got into the habit of having his wife call ahead and reserve a spot for us. It was an added luxury to the ride and it accomplished three things chiefly: It gave us a solid mark to hit so we had to make our destination or bust each day; it also guaranteed us a spot in the town we chose, so there was no stress about things getting sold out. And thirdly, it made checking in a cinch. One night we made a reservation at a pension for a reduced rate and the owner just texted us the room number and left the key on the dresser. Sure enough it was right there when we rolled in around 4am without a soul in sight. We rolled our bikes inside and didn’t have to wait for anything or anyone. We were in, both showered, beered, and lights out within 20 minutes. 2015 was more about not cutting it too close. The next day we would wake up and proceed north for 300K along the East Coast.